Monday, April 8, 2013

Wards

Wards in Tanzania is something that can not be described.  People keep asking me…’so what exacty are you doing dentistry wise in Tanzania?’ simply replying ‘wards and rounds’ doesn’t capture the essence of the experience.
Day one of Tanzania started with the 3 of us getting dropped off at Dr.Mug.’s office.  She introduced herself, us, Dr. K, and told us our first day would include a tour of the university.  We were taken around to see minor theater on the first floor, pediatrics and restorative on the second floor, and, the dental lab on the third floor.  We were also escorted to the student finances building to receive a ‘bill’ for our tuition fees and then to a bank to make the actual payment and collect proof of payment, to then return to the office of financial affairs once again to make us ‘official students.’  We were also escorted to the id-building where we paid to get our cool laminated ids stating we are official students at our University.  …but I digress.
The part I really want to discuss is first ‘’rounds’’ and second ‘’minor/major theater.”
Rounds:  Rounds happens at the wards.  During this the three of us and all the Oral Surgery residents and other interns on their oral surgery rotation would gather from patient to patient to discuss each case. This is a grueling session with doctors asking questions, generating discussion and expecting application of knowledge such as ‘what kind of epithelium covers the respiratory tract’’ (psuedostratified epithelium)… However that is just a factual description of rounds.
My first day of rounds, I knew I was in a hospital because the nauseating smell of urine hits you as you enter the building.  It seemed that prior patients and visitors had used the elevator as their own private urinal.  You also notice that women are housed in a different wing than the men.  The women in the wards usually have some anomaly that deems them acceptable to wards – be it fractures due to motor vehicle accidents, or adenomas, carcinomas, lymphomas, fibromas, etc. The women’s side often smells of sweat.  Funnily, the one place you can ‘’smell’’ Tanzania is its currency.  If you stick a Tanzanian shilling up to your nose you’d say to yourself, ‘’yup, im in Tz”  The odor is a concoction of sweat, lemon, the oil of crayons/wax, and BO.  It is powerful and especially prevalent in the womens section of the wards. 
Each ward is a large room with approximately 30 beds.   Most of them filled with either women or children.  Each bed comes with a little potty bowl, a small shelf and a mosquito net.  There are no TVs, air conditioners, or private bathrooms.  – This was so eye-awakening—I would always threaten/ scare Nat and J when they wanted to try fresh juices or dairy that they would end up in the wards!  Often patients would sit on their beds withering away, just waiting to be taken to be biopsied, or waiting on results of biopsies or waiting for surgery.  The wards are just that – a waiting game and space for transition till they figure out what to do with you. 
Now the men’s ward is a whole other story.  For the first day, I found myself retching multiple times, trying to keep my breakfast down.   The area smells foul. The closest smell I could find was that of the meat shop down the street from our hotel.  To be exact, the men’s ward smelled of rotting flesh, sweat, urine, and body odor.  Moreover , both wards are plagued with flies that swarm around patients, so much so that at some point, they stop swatting at them. 
Walking around the wards makes for a Gruelling Tuesday morning – by the end we are More than ready to go home. 
NEXT POST: MAJOR THEATER!

Friendly Advice for Future Visitors to Tanzania.


Knowing the ‘Queen’s English’ as Nat elegantly puts it, helps!  For instance, it’s dustbin or rubbish, not trash or garbage…It’s lorry, not truck



- When buying internet, don’t buy the unlimited…we found out from another traveler that buying the unlimited leads to initially fast, highspeed internet, which then slows and then stops working. Tricky. Buy the 5 GB and add more if needed in the future.  We have our modems with us that we can pass on or sell to you!

- Baajaj’s shou would cost you 3000 shillings to school and no more than 5-8,000 any where in the city. 

- Don’t forget to turn on the heater for 10 minutes before you shower.

- You get better exchange rates with 20/100 USD at bureau exchanges over USD 1$. 

-Bring with you a mini calculator in your purse to understand exchange rates.

- You want to find a NBC bank--- these are the ONLY banks that will accept your american Visa credit card and there is one in the University and at the Airport.  Changeing money as soon as you land, at the airport is helpful.


- Learn to use an eastern potty…it’s actually a lot more sanitary than the western potty when u really think about it.
- Bring ALL supplies. == your own gloves, so they can be in your size. Your own disclosing agent, if you want it. GOGGLES! They don’t have them here.  PPE…but it’s probably too hot for PPE, 90% of the time.  I had blood splatter directly into my eye on day one of surgery … I spent the rest of the day chasing down the pt’s chart to confirm she was  sero negative for Hep C and HIV neg.  … our school forgot to inform me that PPE goggles would NOT be provided.


- Laundry detergent if you plan on doing your own laundry – save you a few $s.

- Everyone is out to make a $ off of you…so bargain everything, and ask prices even if it seems outrageous.

- The school’s student canteen is the cheapest option for food on campus.

- Learning a little bit of Swahili goes a looong way.

- Arusha>Mwenge market, dar> Zanzibar --- Order of prices of things.  Arusha prices however can’t be done at touristy shops; rather shop at gas stations and vendors that come up to your car. 

- Make friends-- people here are always very willing to help

- Beware of Africafe...we're not sure yet if it's the culprit causing all of our minor stomach problems....more investigation is needed on this bullet point. 

- Lastly, remember the phrase, Hakuna Matata and TIA ...things just happen pole pole or slowly around here. 

Bars In Dar Es Salaam



Bars here are almost no different than the United States.  Women are dressed up to the nines and my grunge look made me stick out like a sore thumb more than I do on my own in this country. 

The first bar we went to, a Muzingo bar, or white person bar, had a live band with a famous Tanzanian Artist.  We danced the night away to classics like circle of life, Shakira Waka waka, and DJ music like Oliver Twist = d’banj.  Bars here tend to rotate btw house music, Africa music, Congolese style, zanzibari style music, R&B, contemporary American club music, and many others.  Cover was 5000 shilling and we showed up around 10, 1030 pm.  I tried the Serengeti Lager for the first time…and it was surprisingly good! 
Another unique feature to Tanzanian bars is prostitutes.  Yes, you read it right.  You know the prostitutes because they have on clothes that just seem overly showy.  Since I am not a man I don’t know if it’s normal to be approached by them on the regular or how much they charge!  I ended up mostly sticking to our group of 7 folks. 

My last observation was that there are 2 groups at the bars:  the decent group and the indecent group – as aptly named by Dr. S.  The indecent group includes the tourists groping prostitutes inappropriately.  I sometimes wonder who raised the men that feel it’s okay to publicly touch ANY woman in that manner.  Then there is the decent group, which includes MOST of the people at the bar.  Gender roles are less specified here. So, men dance with men, with women, and women with men or with each other.  But the main difference is that there is virtually NO grinding.  While you may dance closely with the other person, it’s rare to actually see bodily contact. 



The second bar we went to included a band of almost 10-15 singers/dancers.  And, I saw a row of men with hips that carried their own rhythms.  I have NEVER seen dancing that was so beautifully choreographed.  Granted, some of the moves made me blush…but I’m glad for the experience. 

P.S. I managed to pull off being the ONLY muzingo at the bar wearing a kitenga.  How exciting.

me in a kitenga (the skirt) at Mbogayo beach

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

intermission

Hi,

People keep asking my for photos of what Dentistry I'm doing here. I have a million pictures but feel almost unethical putting up pictures of patients. SO. When I get back, feel free to ask me for my declassified Photos of what I"m doing. Some of it includes: sarcomas, b lymphomas, adenomas ...etc. In fact, today I helped excise a 5x6in rhabdomyosarcoma! So, friends, get excited for our presentation on May 6th at LHS or N. :) 

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Pole Sana, Obedi (Poor Obedi)



Pole Sana, Obedi (poor obedi)

This time, as we exited the Serengeti, I took my time stopping the car and capturing the most amazing photos I can imagine of the Great Migration!  Billions of Wildebeest roamed the pre-serengeti trail.  In fact, at one point, we could see a line of Wildebeest stretching for miles upon miles, waiting to get to the Kenyan Border and the Maasai Mara.  Once we got to Ngorongoro, we borrowed a  cook, and we set up tents on our own!  Turned out that J, Nat, and I make one mean camping machine!  Within 30 minutes we had set up 2 tents --- yes, you non-believers, girls camp too! Hehe.






In the meanwhile, our guide Joneson, drove off with Obedi to the Hospital.  That evening after enjoying a night with friendly tourists, a dead mouse under our dining table, bugs, and a borrowed cook, I set off with Joneson to check up on Obedi -- you see, Obedi had requested we bring him tea to the  hospital. 







As I didn’t want to be ‘that’ tourist I did NOT take photos of the hospital.  Therefore, I’ll attempt my best at describing the scene.  The parking lot to the hospital had 3-5 wild buffalo just hanging around, grazing by our safari truck like it ‘aint a thang’.  We entered a short 1 story building that was fairly large in size and then continued through the second wooden door we saw on the right.  Within, was a room with 4 twin beds on each of the 4 corners of the room.  On the back right, lay our Obedi, all snugged up under a deep green blanket.  Turned out they had diagnosed him with pneumonia and had started him on medications.  Also, turns out a grown man with an American woman fawning over him makes for a very good, happy patient.  When asked if he felt better his response was always ‘betta betta’ plus a ridiculously large, pathetic puppy dog smile that had Joneson and me fawning over him even more!  Obedi had demanded some tea from the hospital which was our reason for the late night trip.  Driving to the hospital that night taught me that the Serengeti has strict laws on how late a car can be on the street.  After 10 pm, no cars are allowed out unless it was a true emergency.  Moreover, we were only allowed to leave at 8 30 pm that night with the permission of our park ranger. 

I end this blog with a list of things lost on our safari:

-          3 broken safari fold away chairs – we’d brought along the cheapest chairs possible
-          My gym shoes – they were stolen from ther safari truck
-          A cook. *he’s alive, just at the hospital*
-          Some tent pegs..they were later found
-          And a squito repellent bottle.
Then, we were off to Ngorongoro Crater!

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Serengeti


The night before the Serengeti, we stayed at heaven’s nature campsite.  We arrived well after dark and finally found a use for our flashlights.  When in Tanzania, there are a few items you should always have on hand.  These items include: flashlight, tampon/pads, antibacterial liquid &wipes, a hat, sunglasses and a neck/potty pillow…but I digress. 
My " dolphin potty pillow" and pillie, our friend on the trip
 

Upon arrival, we were greeted with the usual jambos, after which we were led to our tent(s).  We were told, 2 will stay in this one and that one over there shall host one.  Ofcourse J, nat and I looked at each other wondering who would draw the short straw.  It was going to be a long night for whom ever would be alone.  So we did the only logical thing to do.  We agreed to all snuggle our way into one tent.  Thankfully, the camp assistants came to our aid and moved a mattress from one tent to the next.   That night, my imagination went into high gear as I imagined all the amazing animals I would see at the Serengeti. 

At dawn, 5am, we woke up only to discover that the ‘other tent’ the one that was described as that tent there over there was really one 10 feet away.  The distance just seemed ominous at night. OOPS.  We had our first jungle showers in warm water baths, and took off!
 
The route to the Serengeti was unbelievable.  I imagine if God sneezed, and every single bacterium sprouted into an animal, that is how the path would look. The land was littered with wildebeest, zebra, gazelles, Ostriches, and warthogs, or Pumbas!  I convinced the driver to stop every2 feel which meant that we BARELY made the deadline for getting to the entrance and paying our park fees.  (3-330pm is the final check in time.)  Depressed I had missed ‘so many’ photo opportunities, I looked forward to our journey.  That day we headed straight to the camp and set up home.  Here we built our FIRST tent.  Infact, we built ours, our guide’s and our cook’s tent at the Tumbili campsite.  We had our dinners under the dull glow of a fluorescent lamp and made our bathroom visits, and went to sleep. 

 

I was awoken in the middle of the night.  “you guys, I”ve to pee.”  You would THINK I would be annoyed at having been woken up in the middle of the niht, but quite the contrary, I was thankful because I awoke to a cacophony of hyena calls within meters of our tent, a grunting wild buffalo, and an occasional lion yawn.  Suddenly, the silence of the night was broken by another voice.  Our guide, whom we had forced to position his tent within 1 foot of ours’ asked,  “are you okay?” Of course J responded, “I’ve to pee”… “don’t it’s not safe”… "ok, ok, I’ll try to sleep through it”…

Some 10-15 minutes must have passed as I dozed to the sounds of the Serengeti when suddenly I heard, “you guys it’s only 130am! I’ve to pee”  Finally we opened our tents and peered cautiously out to see if we could sight these hyenas that seemed not too far away.  The stars twinkled, our LED flashlight jetted from left to right to ensure no animals lurked around looking for the next easy meal.  When we deemed the coast clear J skittered to the back  of the tent, relieved herself, and the rest of the night passed uneventfully. 

I awoke at 5, caught the Serengeti sunrise, packed tents, ate the food prepared by our chef, Obedi, and set up into the rising sun, jetting into the Serengeti, or Endless Plains. 

The Serengeti turned out to be less exciting than anticipated.  Animals were  sparse and sightings were rare.  Although we added a whole new set of previously unseen animals (2 baby leopards on a tree, a Goma (a really large deer), a Dik dik (a lil bambi like deer) and a Jackal, a pride of lions, an amazing hippopotamous pond, and a clan of babboons )this was nothing like the area just prior to entering the Serengeti.  Our guide told us that since the migration process was just starting, all the animals were JUST outside of the park rather than within the park.  TO me the Serengeti reminded me of an abandoned home, waiting to replenish itself and await the return of the animals in the fall. 
Baby Leopards playing on a tree while mama was away on a hunt

Baboons.

That evening upon our return, we found our cook to be in immense pain!  “obedi, whats wrong?” …wince, stagger, sit, and point to chest… We had a language barrier, we couldn’t understand what the matter was with obedi.  All we knew was Obedi, our proud maasai warrior and cook, was in such intense pain he couldn’t stand!

Was this Angina pectoris? Was this a muscle spasm?  We waited as our tour guide translated it to us.  Obedi is in pain, explained Joneson.  He says it hurts to swallow and that the pain is on the inside.  I took a quick medical hx which showed no significant findings, I checked his pulse which was a steady rhythmic 62bpm, and I asked his when he attempted to lift a heavy box through his pain if the process of lifting his arms above his shoulders exacerbated his pain.  Once satisfied that he seemed stable, we gave him 800mg Ibuprofen, put him to rest on a chair outside in the shade, gave him a blanket and told him to not move.  Suddenly, we found ourselves one hand short.  But, Hakuna Matata we said, and set on to break down the tent, back up the kitchenware, and set off to Ngorongoro Crater.

Friday, March 29, 2013

Maasai Mara


I have a lot to say about the maasai -- so much so that I don't know where to start.

 We left Tarangire park and found ourselves winding and zipping through the hilly region that is a part of Ngorongoro crater.  (It is said Go RON GO Ro -- the N is silent).

 As our car bumped along the stoney/gravelly/clay path, we started to notice the Maasai.  All of them wear the maasai colors which are red or blue or some variation that incudes both together.  We would find them walking along the streets usually herding goats, cattle, or camel since that is how they eke out a living.  Below is a picture of some cattle herding maasai.  However their main mode of transport is the donkey (so cute). 


Within the community, Maasai are divided into groups. Women are responsible for building the home, cooking the food, and raising children.  Older children and men are responsible for raising the livestock and being warriors.  As warriors they are expected to protect that village against threats such as lions, wild buffalo, and cheetahs.  Despite the warriors training in killing wild animals, their diet consists of milk, meat (cow, camel, etc), and blood.  The last group, the elders of the community, sit on council and advice the Boma, or village, when controversies arise.  Below is a typical boma.



As for marriage, the community believes in polygamy for men.  Hence below is a picture of me with al the chief’s children with different women: ).

 


  When a young male warrior comes of age and he feels he is ready to marry 25+ he can approach the council of elders and inform them of his intention. Then, he waits. He waits until the elders find a girl 16 years of age or greater of their choosing  from another Boma and then a marriage takes place. 



Religion within the Maasai is a very dynamic, evolving concept.  Most Maasai are Christian.  However, there was a time when they had their own religion that some still practice today.  I met a famous Maasai artist yesterday (3/28) who told me the word for ‘god’ in maasai is Nagaii.  It seemed their religion is neither mono or polytheist.  Instead, they simply believe in Nagaii, and religion is incorporated into their way of life.  For instance, when a baby is born, they shave both the mother and child’s head completely.  After this, they raise the child to the sun and declare its name to the world (a la simba in lion king).  I found this interesting because in my culture too, we shave ONLY the child’s head, and write its name in rice instead of giving it to the sun god).  Despite the Christianity, they still continue their rituals  because they don’t recognize it as an act that contradicts Christianity. 

Lastly, Education. The maasai state the money they make (17-20,000TSH) from inviting tourists into their homes is directed towards educating the future.  Here are a few pictures of the school.  I would upload a video but the internet here is ‘acceptable’.

My experience visiting a Boma was nothing short of beautiful.  However, I can’t help but have a gnawing sense of guilt that I have contributed indirectly to their loss of culture.  With the growing dependence on tourist money, I feel Maasai are moving away from their lifestyle of herding and the bartering system. 
Point and case: these days, the Maasai do not like their  pictures taken because many see income potential (1000 tsh) with every picture taken.  This change in attitude is sad to me because both Maasai and Tanzanians in this country have shown me how, open, kind, and giving they are as a people.  We, the tourists, are corrupting their way of life to a degree that they now resort to begging, selling beaded and carved jewelry, and demanding compensation for pictures taken. 
 In order to further educate myself on the issue I started to interview 1. Our maasai cook - Obedi 2. Joneson- our tour guide, and 3. A Famous Maasai artist, Merinyo who carves art, makes batiks, owns clothing stores, and comments on socio-politico-economic aspects of both the Maasai and Africa as a part of his profession.
Obedi is a unique case.  He was a maasai from what I could see not living the ‘maasai lifestyle.’   He had left his boma 5 years ago and started to live in a house in Arusha.  He has one wife and 5 children with her.  When asked why, he responded he left due to his desire to see his children educated.  All indications of a culture lost, no?   However, Joneson reminded me that Obedi may see money, modern culture, etc. but ALL Maasai are expected to go back to the village and continue to live the  Maasai way of life. (This way of life includes living in a hut made of cowdung and straw, surrounded by flies, heat, no airconditioning, above mentioned food, and wearing maasai clothing, etc.  Obedi apparently ensures he AND his family visit and stay overnight at the boma, living the maasai lifestyle.  “The maasai are very proud of who they are…they won’t ever lose their culture,” Joneson promised me. 
My last interview with Mr.  Merinyo showed me a new perspective.  Mr. Merinyo felt culture was lost everyday.  However, his goal with his speeches was to empower Maasai to recognize the wealth and ‘capital’ they each possess within themselves.  For instance if a person is skilled at carving, then the ‘capital’ is not the physical money they  posess.   Rather he promotes viewing that skill itself as the capital.  Therefore, despite the tourism, and the Maasai being exposed to money and the ‘west’ instead of viewing themselves as relatively poor, they should view themselves for the ‘richness’ they possess within themselves to make the ‘capital’ they desire. A complicated response to a complicated question, I know.  But, it made more sense coming out of the horse’s mouth.
At the end of all of my interviewing I’m still left with one question: How much did my visit to the maasai impact their way of life?