The End

I end with my favorite memory of Tanzania -- swimming within 2 feet of a pod of dolphins. I hope you enjoyed my blog. Kwaheri, Good bye.

Remiscing...thoughts, misc stories, good byes

The end of my trip is near.  In the next 18 hours I will be on a flight heading towards Istanbul, Turkey and then home!  It's weird because I not only say Goodbye to Tanzania, but also to my blog.  I shall end with stories that made my trip wonderful...cuz that's how ANY story should end - with stories, memories, and happy endings.

Tanzanians, in general, have taught me many lessons.  For instance, when I came back from my Safari, I had lost my gym shoes.  Thankfully, I'd had the better judgement to bring my backup gym shoes -- the ones that had been through the sewers of Costa Rica.  Unfortunately, however, I did not have the common sense to know not to leave my gym shoes in open view in an unlocked safari car. Of course, I paid the price - they were stolen from me.  I hope that they went to someone that really needed shoes and not a random kleptomaniac.  Anyways, upon returning to Dar, I realized I would have to waltz in to Wards in my open toed shoes and introduce myself as my name is ___ I'm a __ year dental students from __...with sandals! Oh, the mortification.  I then met Dr. S, who immediately brought me to her apt/room and literally gave me her own gym shoes!  How can I forget such kindness and generosity?

Another story...in general, our ''mama two'' in Tanzania, Dr. M would do everything in her possibility to make us happy and comfortable.  For instance, if I said Mama2, I need to find where I can get Internet... she would procure one of her sons..Dr K or Vic to find us the much needed Internet.  From these people, I learned about sharing, giving and hospitality.

My next story is about how we are perceived.  Most people here rarely have exposures to cultures other than their own...not to say that Tanzania is 'mono chromed'...But in general, most people have not stepped outside of Tanzania or its immediate neighboring countries.  So, they would look at us in amazement when they would find out, that J, Nat, and I were from the US...And, their eyes would pop  in amazement when they found we (all 3 are very different in colouring and features) were from the same city/state!

Soo enamored were some of them by the 'america' attached to our backgrounds, that often, it would suffice for them to walk by and feel near to us or say hi or introduce themselves to us.  In fact, I received phone calls from our Bajaaji driver's sister or from the lady down the street who would call, and say hi and ask how I was just to feel near to me.  In that sense, I appreciate the US for the melting pot that it is because with it comes exposure to people of different backgrounds.  You quickly learn that all of the staring and furtive glances, and casual walk bys are nothing but curiosity and an innocent awe of what we are :)

Kariakoo -- any time we would tell people we are living at Kariakoo, their eyes would pop and we'd hear the familiar high-pitched "ahh?!" noise emerge!  ...There are some noises and sounds and expressions very unique to Tanzania... Anyways,  they would then make a comment like, oh, you're really in Africa there!  Are you safe?  And, we would respond that we love Kariakoo.

Kariakoo is considered the ''business'' district of Tanzania.  We spend 20,000 shillings a night or USD $12.50 for a private room with:   a full bed, refrigerator, TV with Aljazeera news channel in English, a private bathroom, fresh linens on the bed, clean bathrooms, Air Conditioning, a ceiling fan, a closet, a desk and Chair, a generator, and honestly.  There has been NO theft what so ever.  I even tested my theory by leaving out a 500TSH note one day.  I hadn't actually done it on purpose, but noted that it remained even when I got back.  Not to say that you are a 100% insulated here...but it's a good option.

In fact, as a warning I'd like to relate a story about that happened to our friend Mur.  Innocent Mur made friends with a 'helpful' Tanzanian named Joneson.  After a full day together, Joneson and Mur were walking back home when they were 'suddenly' apprehended by some ''Tanzanian police officers.'' They were told to enter into a random car.   These men, took mur and his ''friend'' Jonson to an ATM , and demanded Mur withdraw X amount of money for breaking a non existent rule.  Mur quickly caught on these were just common thugs but was forced to maintain the facade for fear of what they MAY do if they knew he knew they were not cops!!...The story ended with them dropping Mur back around Kariakoo and with him having paid them some X amount of shillings.  Lesson learned.  Don't make stupid decisions while in Kariakoo!

Overall, however, the hotel staff are very kind.  They take care of you --- one day they provided me with an escort/security guard to go get some Daafu or coconut on the street at 10pm :)  Moreover, they ask you to keep your valuables with them at the front desk as an added safety measure. And, overall, I only bothered to use one of the locks on my hotel door because that is how safe I felt in my space.  Also, as a general rule, none of us walked alone on the streets after dark or went out much after dark unless in a private taxi with a driver we knew.

Lastly, Tanzanian men, to be exact, are 'touchy'  Being that I'm on the other end of that spectrum (non touchy to the max...I am at least with non family/friends) it took some getting used to.  I don't know if it is because they perceive American women as ''loose'' or if it's because that's how they are with all women... the men here will grab your hand or give you hugs on a whim.  They have no issues draping their arms about your back or shoulders as through you are an old friend.  Often, especially with the street sellers, I would often have to say, don't touch...cuz I"ll be honest, if I don't know you, please don't touch me.  I'm not sure if again this is the American in me not wanting to be touched or if its the Tanzanian in them being more touchy...either ways, it took some getting used to.

My visit to the Balaji Temple here in Tanzania was also pretty amazing.  I got a chance to sit in on a Visu Kannu" or Tamil New Year bhajan (group prayer) event.  I had some pretty amazing traditional Kerala Thaali Food after.

My hosts for my temple visit, Mr. and Mrs. S graciously showed me a little bit about their life here in Tanzania.  At the temple, I got to feel what Hinduism in Tanzania is like.

I got a chance to pray to my family's main god, Balaji, and thank God for everything in my life!.

What else, ...OH Yes we had a day where we went to a English Speaking public School where we handed out stickers, toys, coloring pencils, rings, harmonicas, and toy soldiers/Indians.  We also completed a little survey/questionnaire to asses the health information of children in that particular school.  We interviewed 9-12 years olds on their brushing and dietary habits.  At the end, we used SPSS ( a statistics program) to analyze the data we collected.  We completed a mini report on our findings.

Note pink tooth -- internal resorption because the tooth is near exfoliation. 

Next, a confession.  Despite my regular diet consisting of rice my entire lifetime, I can't lie when I say I enjoyed the bits of American food I would eat now and then in this country.  For those of you nearing the end of your trip seeking that little bit of America -- ask to go to a restaurant called steers -- its near Samora avenue (another option for where to get souvenirs in case you don't want to go all the way to Mwenge each time).  

Next, I also have the happy memory of celebrating Nat's 2_th birthday.  ( A lady never reveals another lady's age, hehe).  We ended up going to this Restaurant called Akeme on the 22nd floor of Jubilee Towers.  Twas an amazing night of poshness and revelry.  Akeme is a revolving restaurant that affords you a panoramic view of Dar.  Here, I had one of the MOST amazing dishes I have ever eaten in my entire life. In the States I've been to Moto, Ing, and a few others amazing 5 star restaurants.  However, my pesto pasta I had here can definitely hold a candle to the dishes I've tried at other restaurants in the world.  The pasta had nuts, tomatoes, eggplant, vegetables, and so many flavors that all coalesced together creating spurts of flavors, textures and feelings.  The number of ingredients the pasta boasts is unbelievable and to not have any one completely take over the dish...yum.  

Finally, an ode to Pillie -- our travel companion.  Pillie is a chipmunk that traveled with us on our Safari together.  Him and my fan helped me survive this country.  Both were also very popular with the natives.  A number of them asked if they could keep either Pillie or my fan.  My answer to both queries was no.  

Lastly, I shall miss my mamas in this country.  I shall miss our friends, and the leisurely lifestyle of hakuna matata.  I shall miss Swahili, the simplicity of life, and I shall miss the life lessons.  

I hope my blog helps you my loyal readers when you choose to take on your own Safari to Tanzania :

~ M

Bogomayo Island

This island is a tiny island just off the coast of Dar Es Salaam.  The 3 of us set off one weekend to it.  The ferry to the island is situated in Oyster Bay, a relatively posh area of Dar.  Here tourist shops are abundant as are functional ATMs.  Restaurants serve pasta, pizza, Chinese food, and more westernized food.  Yes for those of you reading my blog 2 weeks into meals containing rice, Oyster Bay shall truly sound like heaven.

Anyways, we then approached the ticket counter, shelled out 30,000TSH (Muzungo/foreigner price) and climbed onto a leaky fishing boat.  Our boat man had the motor in one hand and a pail in the other to throw out the incoming water.  One of these leaky boats in total costs 4 million shillings (approx 2500USD).  This usually means that the boatman probably does not own his boat.  Rather, a wealthy owner leases out the boat in exchange for a cut of the profits from fishing. 

As our boat mates (the ones that can't swim) began to panic, we were told we were switching boats mid ocean to a medium sized ferry boat.  The rest of the journey was uneventful, minus another mid ocean switch to a little fishing boat.  We finally made it to land. 

Heheh.

Just a pretty picture. This boat probably costs 1 million TSH...on way to ferry ticket counter (visible at far end of picture)

I found some babies on the beach that were excited to be in a picture with me

The skies unfortunately got overcast midway through our trip

I love this picture



 

As noted above, we got some play time in the water and were Enjoying the day with some kids we found on the beach, when suddenly, it got overcast and we were trapped in a rainstorm on the island.  Thankfully, the island had a bunch of Tiki Huts  We got under and got ourselves some Zege, or Chipsi Mayai Or Chips and Eggs and enjoyed the rest of our trip watching the rainstorm pass by. 

 

Our return from the island was an adventure in itself!  The rain storm finally subsided Thankfully, during this time Nat had spent some time becoming friends with the man coordinating the boats for pickup.  We were told that if we missed the final ferry, we'd be stuck on the island over night.  I'm not sure if there are people that live on the isand, but for sure there are people that bring tents and camp over night at the island.  But, back to the point. Thankfully, Nat had friendsted the boat coordinator guy.  He KNEW that we muzungos would step back,and wait and get stranded on the island, so he comandeered the final boat that came to pick us up to stop right at our feet.  Trust me, we needed this!  For every 1 muzungo that got on from the left side of the boat 20 natives shuffle their way on from the right!  We were being hoarded onto the boat, and told to jumpi quiki because the boat would get full.  Thankfully, all three of us and 3 other Muzungos on the island made it on on time.  I think the scarcity of resources has infused the natives to really internalize that phrase ''the early bird gets the worm''..but anyways, the point is we were safe and on the boat!

 

Once we jumped aboard the final ferry, we realized we'd SOME HOW climbed aboard a boat filled with Witnesses! Yes you read it correctly -- Jehovah's Witnesses.  So we spent the rest of the trip taking photos with the witnesses, and made it back.

 

We ended the night having pasta, pina coladas and coca colas on a restaurant ON the indian ocean with the sunset lighting up the scene all around us.  We also found a pet kitten to feed our bony leftovers to.  What an exciting trip it was. 

 



Zanzibar Part III - Prison Island,

The next day, we had signed up for a tour of prison island. Cost: $20USD.  As usual, I woke up, wore my pink striped bikini with a flower on it, my sun block, my kanga, and a cotton shirt and took off to the ferry dock.  As I got on the boat, I popped in my chewable orange Dramamine pill and set off toward Prison island.  As it turns out, prison island is a 1-1.5 hr boat ride from Stone Town.  During the ride I found out from my boatman (who was also a full time fisherman) that HIS cut of the 20USDx3 (60USD) amounted to 4,000TSH.  In case you wondered that’s a whopping 2$.  Makes me think we would have been better off approaching a random fisherman on the street so he gets more of a cut.  Since we had been lazy tourists and just booked through the hotel, we paid a higher price.

Prison island is a private island that was initially built to host rebellious slaves.  Later, a prison was built to be used to quarantine infectious people.  Fortunately, it was neither used as a prison or a hospital. 

Today, they are busy giving it a paint job to re-open it as an exclusive private resort for rich tourists that visit. 

Our arrival had us dropped off at one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever laid eyes on.  The sand is white;  the water is an unimaginable shade of blue with the tiniest of waves lapping at our feet.  Although not huge, it was medium in size and provided for pictures that you find in those articles about ‘’TOP 10 beaches it he world.’’  As beautiful as it is by day, by evening, the sand bank is eaten up by the encroaching water and what remains is a tiny strip of sand reminding us there WAS a beach we’d spent the entire day playing on.  Prison Island is also special because it hosts a program to re-populate this Giant tortoise population that had been driven to near extinction by theifs and bad people in the past.  I can’t lie…I chose this tour for two reasons.  1.  Because you can pet the tortoises (unlike the Galapagos) and 2. because I had hoped to enjoy snorkeling around the island.

As you enter the island you’re led to a sanctuary for these tortoises.  With our luck, we happened upon one extremely horsey tortoise that kept chasing all the females and mating with them.  Tortoise mating involves some thrusting and awkward moaning noises that would make anyone blush to be a part of their private moment.  Of course, I was a terrible tourist and videotaped this phenomenon, hehe. 

Besides this, we also learned that the tortoises LO VE to be petted.  When you first arrive the tortoises would cower within their shells.  But, if you pet their arms and legs, they’ll soon pop out and stand for you to show u their long, graceful necks, so you can pet them.   After getting my full share of petting and posing, I left to visit the nursery with the 3-7 year old tortoises. 

Now, I’m not sure if God overheard my jealousy from the day before or not, but my little baby tortoise decided, as I was carrying it taking a photo, to squiggle its legs, make an awkward farting noise, and let out a stream of urine.  Thankfully, the urine did not hit me and I quickly handed him back to our tour guide mid-pee.  Now that I’ve seen them in the Galapagos and Zanzibar, I think I’ve officially had my fill of Giant Turtles/Tortoises. 

Yes, we managed to catch the sucker, mid stream.

As I was saying my second reason for going to Prison Island was for the snorkeling that was promised.  I can’t lie when I saw I was slightly disappointed with the reefs.  I think I will forever compare every reef to the one I saw in Key West Florida, and nothing will ever compare. 

Over all, prison island’s breathtaking beauty and artificial Tortoise Nursery made it worth my time to visit it.

Zanzibar Part II - Jozani Forest.

After Dolphins, we were led to this forest that was once said to cover all of Zanzibar.  It is the home to the rare, RED colobus monkey which is found nowhere else in the world.  To be honest, I’m a little bored of Monkeys.  I’ve watched them here and there SO many times --- indian temples, Lincolnpark Zoo, Costa Rica, Ecuador, etc. that I’m tired of them.  So, I suffice it to say yup, they’re there in the Jhozani forest, clearing out entire trees in the forest with their voracious appetites.  As we walked through I joked about how I didn’t want one of them to shit on me… J joked ‘’M, you’re a nut…”.  5 minutes later, as predicted, Nat and J almost got pissed on from 30 feet up by a Red Colobus Monkey.  I can’t lie, when I say I was slightly jealous it happened to them instead of me…what a story it would make to tell someone you were pissed on by a Rare, Red Colobus Monkey!  But now I’ve spent too much time talking about creatures that no longer pique my interest, so I shall move on.

 

 

Zanzibar - Part I - Intro, Dolphins

Zanzibar –Part I

Upon doing some quick math, I concluded that taking a RT flight was 10 USD more than taking a 2-3 hour RT ferry, and therefore TOTALLY worth flying into Zanzibar. The flight makes Zanzibar feel like it’s a hop, skip, and a jump away. Within 15 minutes of being in air, we landed at the Zanzibar airport.  Our airport taxi into Stone Town cost us $10USD.  Here we picked up a Ryan Gosling look alike from Texas named __. 

Turned out our stranger was actually visiting from Sudan where he was working closely with Drs. w/o borders.  He worked as some structural engineer, and claimed his biggest threats included possibly dying from being shot (gun violence) or being burned while in the health center there.  Both pretty scary possibilities to face.  Moreover, he apparently lived in a hut, much like the one described earlier when discussing the Maasai.  Overall, he  felt the risks were worth it.  Kudos to him. He turned out to be an entertaining companion for our car ride.

Upon arrival, our hotel, 1001 Nights, turned out to be a multicolored 2 bedroom apt with a private bathroom and dramatic mosquito netting around the beds.  We quickly arranged for a $35pp Dolphin tour.  This turned out to be the MOST amazing part of the trip for me.  (PS… we over paid for that trip by a lot…another couple we went w paid only $29…but that’s what comes of planning things last minute). 

The next morning, 2 dramamines later, I found myself face to face with a pod of 5 wild bottlenose dolphins, all doing a mating dance within 2 feet of me! One playfully bit the other, while I spastically fumbled for my camera hoping to capture the moment.  Turns out, im not very coordinated with flippers, a camera, snorkeling goggles that don’t fit and can’t be tightened!  Sadly, I have nothing but a video of the event. But, I KNOW in my heart that I will never forget the beautiful sight of a dolphin looking me in the eye as it brushes past, playfully tugging at another nearby dolphin. This memory I shall take with me to sleep every night of this trip.  Sigh.

We also got a chance to snorkel and see a part of the reef by Kimikazi.

Major Theater

I should give Dr. S a huge thank you – I got an opportunity to start an iv line because of her and draw blood.  Next timeI shall learn how to place a catheter prior to surgery…but I’m again jumping ahead in my story.

Major Theater occurs Monday – Thursday and includes all varieties of surgeries including: excisions, enucleations, open and closed reductions, etc.  Surgeries often run anywhere from 1-4 hours and are nothing short of eye opening.  Of course, this requires you (the student) to be very comfortable around all sorts of bodily excrements.  Upon entering the building you are expected to sign in, change into ‘’sterile scrubs’’ that are provided, and change into the operatory shoes provided to you.  Once in, you scrub in, and assist during surgery by using the suction or gauze. 

Instead of describing the surgery, I would like to discuss some of the similarities and differences between here and home.  Here, most dentistry/surgeries are 80% covered by the government.  However, certain materials such as plates and screws are bought BY the patient.  While titanium plates may cost no more than $1600, patients here cannot afford such ‘frivolities,’ so surgeons make do with just wires. 

For instance, a 25 year old female patient came in with Ameloblastoma requiring resection from angle to angle of the mandible.  Ideally, this lady should have had complete mandibular resection, and restoration with plates. However, plates are not a luxury she can afford.  To me, this was one of the saddest truths about Tanzania I learned.  I hope for next year, we can do a fund raiser prior to entering the country –so even if only one patient gains functionality from the contribution, it’s worth it.