Saturday, March 30, 2013

Serengeti


The night before the Serengeti, we stayed at heaven’s nature campsite.  We arrived well after dark and finally found a use for our flashlights.  When in Tanzania, there are a few items you should always have on hand.  These items include: flashlight, tampon/pads, antibacterial liquid &wipes, a hat, sunglasses and a neck/potty pillow…but I digress. 
My " dolphin potty pillow" and pillie, our friend on the trip
 

Upon arrival, we were greeted with the usual jambos, after which we were led to our tent(s).  We were told, 2 will stay in this one and that one over there shall host one.  Ofcourse J, nat and I looked at each other wondering who would draw the short straw.  It was going to be a long night for whom ever would be alone.  So we did the only logical thing to do.  We agreed to all snuggle our way into one tent.  Thankfully, the camp assistants came to our aid and moved a mattress from one tent to the next.   That night, my imagination went into high gear as I imagined all the amazing animals I would see at the Serengeti. 

At dawn, 5am, we woke up only to discover that the ‘other tent’ the one that was described as that tent there over there was really one 10 feet away.  The distance just seemed ominous at night. OOPS.  We had our first jungle showers in warm water baths, and took off!
 
The route to the Serengeti was unbelievable.  I imagine if God sneezed, and every single bacterium sprouted into an animal, that is how the path would look. The land was littered with wildebeest, zebra, gazelles, Ostriches, and warthogs, or Pumbas!  I convinced the driver to stop every2 feel which meant that we BARELY made the deadline for getting to the entrance and paying our park fees.  (3-330pm is the final check in time.)  Depressed I had missed ‘so many’ photo opportunities, I looked forward to our journey.  That day we headed straight to the camp and set up home.  Here we built our FIRST tent.  Infact, we built ours, our guide’s and our cook’s tent at the Tumbili campsite.  We had our dinners under the dull glow of a fluorescent lamp and made our bathroom visits, and went to sleep. 

 

I was awoken in the middle of the night.  “you guys, I”ve to pee.”  You would THINK I would be annoyed at having been woken up in the middle of the niht, but quite the contrary, I was thankful because I awoke to a cacophony of hyena calls within meters of our tent, a grunting wild buffalo, and an occasional lion yawn.  Suddenly, the silence of the night was broken by another voice.  Our guide, whom we had forced to position his tent within 1 foot of ours’ asked,  “are you okay?” Of course J responded, “I’ve to pee”… “don’t it’s not safe”… "ok, ok, I’ll try to sleep through it”…

Some 10-15 minutes must have passed as I dozed to the sounds of the Serengeti when suddenly I heard, “you guys it’s only 130am! I’ve to pee”  Finally we opened our tents and peered cautiously out to see if we could sight these hyenas that seemed not too far away.  The stars twinkled, our LED flashlight jetted from left to right to ensure no animals lurked around looking for the next easy meal.  When we deemed the coast clear J skittered to the back  of the tent, relieved herself, and the rest of the night passed uneventfully. 

I awoke at 5, caught the Serengeti sunrise, packed tents, ate the food prepared by our chef, Obedi, and set up into the rising sun, jetting into the Serengeti, or Endless Plains. 

The Serengeti turned out to be less exciting than anticipated.  Animals were  sparse and sightings were rare.  Although we added a whole new set of previously unseen animals (2 baby leopards on a tree, a Goma (a really large deer), a Dik dik (a lil bambi like deer) and a Jackal, a pride of lions, an amazing hippopotamous pond, and a clan of babboons )this was nothing like the area just prior to entering the Serengeti.  Our guide told us that since the migration process was just starting, all the animals were JUST outside of the park rather than within the park.  TO me the Serengeti reminded me of an abandoned home, waiting to replenish itself and await the return of the animals in the fall. 
Baby Leopards playing on a tree while mama was away on a hunt

Baboons.

That evening upon our return, we found our cook to be in immense pain!  “obedi, whats wrong?” …wince, stagger, sit, and point to chest… We had a language barrier, we couldn’t understand what the matter was with obedi.  All we knew was Obedi, our proud maasai warrior and cook, was in such intense pain he couldn’t stand!

Was this Angina pectoris? Was this a muscle spasm?  We waited as our tour guide translated it to us.  Obedi is in pain, explained Joneson.  He says it hurts to swallow and that the pain is on the inside.  I took a quick medical hx which showed no significant findings, I checked his pulse which was a steady rhythmic 62bpm, and I asked his when he attempted to lift a heavy box through his pain if the process of lifting his arms above his shoulders exacerbated his pain.  Once satisfied that he seemed stable, we gave him 800mg Ibuprofen, put him to rest on a chair outside in the shade, gave him a blanket and told him to not move.  Suddenly, we found ourselves one hand short.  But, Hakuna Matata we said, and set on to break down the tent, back up the kitchenware, and set off to Ngorongoro Crater.

Friday, March 29, 2013

Maasai Mara


I have a lot to say about the maasai -- so much so that I don't know where to start.

 We left Tarangire park and found ourselves winding and zipping through the hilly region that is a part of Ngorongoro crater.  (It is said Go RON GO Ro -- the N is silent).

 As our car bumped along the stoney/gravelly/clay path, we started to notice the Maasai.  All of them wear the maasai colors which are red or blue or some variation that incudes both together.  We would find them walking along the streets usually herding goats, cattle, or camel since that is how they eke out a living.  Below is a picture of some cattle herding maasai.  However their main mode of transport is the donkey (so cute). 


Within the community, Maasai are divided into groups. Women are responsible for building the home, cooking the food, and raising children.  Older children and men are responsible for raising the livestock and being warriors.  As warriors they are expected to protect that village against threats such as lions, wild buffalo, and cheetahs.  Despite the warriors training in killing wild animals, their diet consists of milk, meat (cow, camel, etc), and blood.  The last group, the elders of the community, sit on council and advice the Boma, or village, when controversies arise.  Below is a typical boma.



As for marriage, the community believes in polygamy for men.  Hence below is a picture of me with al the chief’s children with different women: ).

 


  When a young male warrior comes of age and he feels he is ready to marry 25+ he can approach the council of elders and inform them of his intention. Then, he waits. He waits until the elders find a girl 16 years of age or greater of their choosing  from another Boma and then a marriage takes place. 



Religion within the Maasai is a very dynamic, evolving concept.  Most Maasai are Christian.  However, there was a time when they had their own religion that some still practice today.  I met a famous Maasai artist yesterday (3/28) who told me the word for ‘god’ in maasai is Nagaii.  It seemed their religion is neither mono or polytheist.  Instead, they simply believe in Nagaii, and religion is incorporated into their way of life.  For instance, when a baby is born, they shave both the mother and child’s head completely.  After this, they raise the child to the sun and declare its name to the world (a la simba in lion king).  I found this interesting because in my culture too, we shave ONLY the child’s head, and write its name in rice instead of giving it to the sun god).  Despite the Christianity, they still continue their rituals  because they don’t recognize it as an act that contradicts Christianity. 

Lastly, Education. The maasai state the money they make (17-20,000TSH) from inviting tourists into their homes is directed towards educating the future.  Here are a few pictures of the school.  I would upload a video but the internet here is ‘acceptable’.

My experience visiting a Boma was nothing short of beautiful.  However, I can’t help but have a gnawing sense of guilt that I have contributed indirectly to their loss of culture.  With the growing dependence on tourist money, I feel Maasai are moving away from their lifestyle of herding and the bartering system. 
Point and case: these days, the Maasai do not like their  pictures taken because many see income potential (1000 tsh) with every picture taken.  This change in attitude is sad to me because both Maasai and Tanzanians in this country have shown me how, open, kind, and giving they are as a people.  We, the tourists, are corrupting their way of life to a degree that they now resort to begging, selling beaded and carved jewelry, and demanding compensation for pictures taken. 
 In order to further educate myself on the issue I started to interview 1. Our maasai cook - Obedi 2. Joneson- our tour guide, and 3. A Famous Maasai artist, Merinyo who carves art, makes batiks, owns clothing stores, and comments on socio-politico-economic aspects of both the Maasai and Africa as a part of his profession.
Obedi is a unique case.  He was a maasai from what I could see not living the ‘maasai lifestyle.’   He had left his boma 5 years ago and started to live in a house in Arusha.  He has one wife and 5 children with her.  When asked why, he responded he left due to his desire to see his children educated.  All indications of a culture lost, no?   However, Joneson reminded me that Obedi may see money, modern culture, etc. but ALL Maasai are expected to go back to the village and continue to live the  Maasai way of life. (This way of life includes living in a hut made of cowdung and straw, surrounded by flies, heat, no airconditioning, above mentioned food, and wearing maasai clothing, etc.  Obedi apparently ensures he AND his family visit and stay overnight at the boma, living the maasai lifestyle.  “The maasai are very proud of who they are…they won’t ever lose their culture,” Joneson promised me. 
My last interview with Mr.  Merinyo showed me a new perspective.  Mr. Merinyo felt culture was lost everyday.  However, his goal with his speeches was to empower Maasai to recognize the wealth and ‘capital’ they each possess within themselves.  For instance if a person is skilled at carving, then the ‘capital’ is not the physical money they  posess.   Rather he promotes viewing that skill itself as the capital.  Therefore, despite the tourism, and the Maasai being exposed to money and the ‘west’ instead of viewing themselves as relatively poor, they should view themselves for the ‘richness’ they possess within themselves to make the ‘capital’ they desire. A complicated response to a complicated question, I know.  But, it made more sense coming out of the horse’s mouth.
At the end of all of my interviewing I’m still left with one question: How much did my visit to the maasai impact their way of life?

 

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

TARANGIRE

TARANGIRE National park is one of many parks in Tanzania.  It is known for its herds of Elephants, and giraffes.  Our trip to Tarangire was nothing short of amazing.

I M HERE!!!

As soon as we entered the first sighting we had was of an elephant -- or Tembaa! :) 



Yes, they walked within a few feet of our car :) 

It turned out to be a day of good luck and sunshine.  Every time I asked for an animal I received it within 5 minute of my request.  I then asked for a giraffe!!

Next on my request plate was a ostrich....PUN NOTE INTENDED> PLEEASE DO NOT EAT AN OSTRICH

Lastly, I requested that a giraffe walk across our street. Since I was pushing our luck, I tried for a simpler request of a gazelle!

This little guy below decided to join us for lunch :) 


And, the highlight of it all occurred when we were heading back and dusk set in.  We were late due to my constantly asking our guide to stop the car. oops.   As we headed back at 50-60 miles per hour, i feel my body being thrust forward.  I was awoken with a jolt to realize were were fast careening into a girraffe that had decided to take a stroll across the street.  Thankfully, we missed the giraffe by mere inches, and were in turn blessed with our best sighting of the day...

All my wishes had come true... I could not have asked for a better experience at Tarangire National Park :) 
This post is frm 3/20/2013.

Today did not go entirely as planned.  We went to the school got checked in which took a few hours to do.  Shops did not open till 9/10 am and out school meetin was scheduled for 11am.  11-3 was spent at school running to a bank to pay up, getting receipts, collecting IDs, and meeting the different deans of our school.

Dr. M allowed us to use to school car to get to the airport.

We made the car wait as we made a last minute dash to the bank/money exchange to get some TSH (tanzanian shillings).  With our luck, one of our credit cards got eaten by the ATM and we FLEW our way to the airport through Tz traffic.

Thankfully, we made it on time, slept the entire flight, and landed in Arusha.  I leave u w some pix:






Premier Palace hotel == which to us at that point seemed like Nirvana! :) Warm showers, 27$ per person per night = made for some restful sleep.

**Nat noted that it rains EVERY early morning in Arusha.  ** that morning, as expected, it rained. 


Wow! I’m in Dar Es Salaam.  But, let’s back track this story to me leaving Chicago.
It was the saddest thing for me to see my parents lovingly wave good bye to me at the Chicago airport.  N’s dad dropped her off, worried she’d be late.   J’s fiancĂ©, this really sweet thing named Melvin was all smiles as we waved our goodbyes.  We were off!
The first flight passed by uneventful.  The food on the flight was so so.  I got this ‘vegetarian option’ which consisted of steamed veggies with rice and a red tomato based sauce over it.  Over all, Turkish airlines was clean, provided us with individual tvs, kept on schedule, and was fairly spacious. 
At the Istanbul airport, we each purchased bracelets, bookmarks, and lucky charms.  The airport is abuzz with international travelers of all races, ice cream vendors dressed in traditional garb, Hookah shops, Salvatore Ferregamo, and duty free shops.  After our 1 hour we allotted ourselves for shopping, we headed to our gate and were off. 
You know you’re in Dar because the humidity will hit you and smother you into a hot sweaty mess.  You look around eagerly waiting to see your name on a sheet of paper held by a dude that supposed to get you.  It’s 330am, there is a sea of faces and no name.  J freaks out, and decides it’s time to catch a cab!  Suddenly, out of the sea of foreign faces, appears our host, Dr. Kasusu smiling and in a perfect English asking “ did you say al Uruba hotel?” 
10 minutes later, we arrived at our hotel.  Sweaty, sticky, all we wanted was a shower.  Dr. K informs us, there is a situation.  The hotel is booked; there are no more open rooms.  At this point, I headed up, and mentioned that I had a reservation.  The hotel apologize, stated, we usually are not equipped to take you till 9am.  At 9am we can clean and give you your room. 

Thank god, by 5am, we were in our room ready for a shower.  For now, I am thankful, we are in a hotel, showered. 
For today: we need to get situated with cell phones, some TSH (Tanzanian shillings), and be ready to meet Dr. K at 11 for a tour of our school.  Exciting. 


This is Kariakoo market, right by our hotel.  

Monday, March 18, 2013

I'm leaving tomorrow.  So much to update you on.

This past week I have been walking to the beat of elton John's "circle of life".  My mind has wandered between the warm white sands of Zanzibar and class III preps. (this is dent speak for you non dentists out there reading my blog).

Yesterday I took only the biggest exam of my life.  I hope it went well.  I wait 2-3 days to find out results.  This is scary.  If I pass, I practically have myself a degree.  And, if I don't, I have 2 days to re-apply.

Dentistry aside, today, is the day after my exam, and my focus is now Africa.  I have last minute details to pack, a quick trip to the school, bank, etc to handle.

For the future students that want to go, I can send you a sample of the documents we made that you can make for yourselves.

My flight is in 2-3 hrs, and I await with nervousness and excitement.

Jambo, Habari Gani, Africa, here we come!

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

2 weeks to go!

WOW!  I finally have stuff to update!

We completed our visas -- this required a 102$ check, a letter from MUHAS explaining what we're doing there, and 2 passport size photos.  We created a fed ex account, shelled out some $ for tracking our passports since they had to go to D.C. and come back.  Moreover, they required us to send pre-paid envelopes along with our visa request submission. 

**The Good news is, the passport is back with a cool new page that has my passport photo and visa that allows me to enter Tanzania!** WOOT.

Next, 4 files were created on google drive:

1.  File with last minute details to arrange and things to pack
2.  Excel file with contact info in tanz/US, itinerary, and an I.O.U. page to keep track of expenditures
3.  File with basic swahili terms printed out
4.  a ''survival binder'' w notes on what to do if a disaster strikes.

The nice thing about google drive is that it allows us to share information with multiple people and allows many to edit it.  I shall try to upload screen shots of our files over the next two blogs (minus the personal info, of course)

T-12 days. AHHH! scary.